Vintage School room Box Furniture
REFERENCE STAND
NATURE-STUDY STAND
TEACHERS DESK
UPRIGHT CLOCK
BOOK AND KNICKKNACK
BRACKET
SCRAP-BOX
NEST 0F BENCHES
UMBRELLA AND
OVER SHOE STAND
Color Scheme :
Dark oak.
Light brown.
Woodwork :
Dark oak.
Furniture:
Dark oak, with motif stenciled in same color as walls.
Walls: Light brown,
with motif stenciled in same color as woodwork
Ceiling:
Same color as walls, but lighter shade.
Curtains:
Unbleached cotton cloth, and motif stenciled with the light and dark browns used on the walls and wood
work.
Floor:
Stained dark brown and finished with shellac.
Plants:
Evergreens, growing vines, plants, and cut flowers of one
color or varying hues of same; for instance, a harmony of cream or orange or
red.
ODDS AND ENDS STAND
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Requirements:
Body. 3 Bottled-bean Boxes (about 7 8/4 in. deep, 11 8/4 in.
wide, 12 1/4, in. long)
Legs.
4 Stripe 8/8 in. thick, 1 1/8 in. Wide, 86 in. long. 4
Stripe 8/8 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, 36 in. long.
Construction:
Make the legs 36
inches long. Remove the covers. Turn one box on its side and nail on two of the
legs, allowing one end of each to project 4 inches from the bottom face of the
box. Place the second box on its side, with its open top facing in the same
direction as the open top of the first box, and nail the other end of the legs
to it, keeping their ends even with the open-top edges of the box. Set the
third box between the two end boxes, evenly spaced, and nail the legs to it.
Turn the three boxes upside down and nail the other legs on in the same manner
ROLLING SOILED DISH STAND
This stand is intended to convey the soiled dishes from the
dining-room-to the kitchen.
Requirements:
Body.
2 Picture Boxes (about 5 1/2 in. deep, 18 in. wide, 30
in. long).
Top.
1 Piece 1/2 in.
thick, 3 in. wider and 4 in. longer than the outside size of the box.
Legs.
4 Stripe 5/8 in. thick, 1 5/8 in. wide, 27 in. long. 4
Stripe 5/8 in. thick, 2 1/4, in. wide, 27 in. long.
Hardware.
4 eastern and screws.
Construction:
Make the legs 27 inches long. Remove the covers. Turn one
box on its side and nail on two of the legs. Keep the ends of the legs even
with the bottom of the box. Nail the other ends of the legs to the other box,
keeping the open top of both boxes facing the same way and the ends of the legs
even with the top of the box. Turn both boxes on the other side and nail the
other two legs in the same way to both boxes. Turn both boxes so the legs will
stand in a vertical position, with the top of the last box resting flat on the
floor. Place and fasten a caster with screws under each corner of the bottom
compartment. Nail a cleat, 1 1/2 inches wide and 5 inches shorter than the
width of the top, on the under side of the top, 5 inches from each end. The top
will not be nailed, as it is to be used as a cover or loose top.
NOTE. The Smoker’s Table shown in the Den Interior is made
in the same manner as the Rolling Soiled. Dish Stand, but from smaller boxes.
FLOWER AND BOOK STAND
Requirements:
Body.
2 Soup Boxes (about 10 3/4 in. deep, 14 1/4 in. wide, 20 in.
long).
Flower Receptacle Side.
1 Piece 1/2 in. thick, 6 in. wide, and length equal to the
inside length of the box.
Arms.
2 Pieces 1/2 in. thick, 3 in. wide, 3 in. longer than the
outside depth of the box with the cover removed.
Facing Stripe.
4 Pieces 1/2 in. thick, 3 in. wide, 8 in. shorter than the
outside depth of the box with the cover removed.
Legs.
4 Ships 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, 3 in. longer than
twice the outside width of the box. 4 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 3 in.
longer than twice the outside width of the box.
Cleats.
4 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, and length equal to the
inside depth of the box.
Construction:
Make the legs 3 inches longer than twice the outside width
of the box. Remove the covers. Take one box, which will form the two lower
compartments. Turn it on its side; remove the top side; out the side removed to
the inside length and width of the box. Set it in half- way down to form the
shelf, having previously nailed a cleat on each end to support it. Take the
other box and turn it upon its side and remove the top side. Across each inside
end of the box nail a cleat. Keep the top of the cleat 6 inches below the top
of the ends to support the bottom of the flower receptacle. Set both boxes on
the floor, side by side, on their original bottoms, and hold them close together
while the legs are nailed in place. Keep their top ends even with the edges of
the open side of the box which will form the flower receptacle. Fit the front
side of the flower receptacle and nail it to the inside face of the legs. Turn
the stand right side up on its legs. From the spare side removed from the box,
cut and fit the bottom of the flower receptacle and nail it to the cleats. At
each end of the stand cover the joint midway the height with a facing strip
placed centrally over the joint and nailed to the ends of both boxes. Nail
another facing strip at each lower end of the stand.
BEDSIDE STAND
BEDSIDE STAND
Requirements:
Body. 1 Soap Box (about 10 8/4 in. deep, 14 1/4 in. wide, 20
in. long). 1 Box (about 5 in. deep, 14 1/4 in. wide, 20 in. long).
Upper Door.
1 Piece 1/2 in. thick, 6 in. wide, 3 in. shorter than the
length of the outside of the box.
Top.
1 Piece 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wider than the outside
depth of the box, 3 in. longer than the outside length of the box.
Door Cleats.
2 Pieces 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 4 in. shorter than the
outside width of the box.
Legs.
4 Pieces 1/2 in.
thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, 30 in. long. 4 Piece: 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 30 in.
long.
Hardware.
2 pull knobs.
2 3 in. .tee hinges and screws.
2 1 1/2 in. butts and screws.
Lower Door. The
lower door is to be made from the cover removed from the box.
Construction:
Make the legs 30 inches long. Remove the cover from the
larger box. Nail a leg to each corner of this box, allowing the ends to project
exactly 6 inches on one side. Turn in an upright position upon its legs. Remove one side from the smaller box and nail
the cover down level and securely. Set this box between the long projecting
ends of the legs, keeping its top even with the top ends of the legs, and nail
the legs to it. Have the open sides of the boxes facing the same way. Place the
top in position, keeping the rear edge even with the face of the legs and
projecting evenly at the front and ends, and drive the nails near the-edges and
into the sides of the box, so they will not be exposed either inside or
outside. Make the doors. The face of each door is to be even with the face of
the legs. The length of the doors will be the distance between the legs, and
the depth will be the outside depth of the box. Hang the upper door from its
top by the 1 1/2 inch butts, one half of the butt being secured to the face of
the door and the other half to the under side projecting edge of the top. Put
the cleats on the lower door and hang with the tee hinges screwed to the face
of both legs and door. Place pull-knob on upper door 1 1/3 inches and on lower
door 2 1/2 inches from the edge of the door. Small spring catches or buttons
may be placed on the doors if desired to hold them closed.
SILVERETTE
This piece was used in a limited space for one year in a
model flat in a tenement district and one year in a studio in the art quarter.
Requirements:
Body.
4 Bottled Soda Water Boxes (about 15 in. wide, 20 in. long,
4 in. deep).
Cover.
3 Covers made from the box tops. 1 Cover 3 in. wider and 3
in. longer than the boxes.
Partitions.
9 Pieces 1/2 in. thick, width equal to the inside depth of
the boxes, length equal to the inside width of the boxes.
Legs.
4 Strips 1/2 in.
thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, 56 in. long. 4 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 56 in.
long.
Hardware. 8 1 1/2 in. hinges (butts) and screws.
Construction:
Make the legs 56 inches long. Remove the covers. Fit and
nail the partitions in the boxes, spacing them to suit the various articles
they will contain. The top box is to be used as one compartment for table
linen.
Fasten the partitions in place with 1 1/4, inch brads driven
from the outside of the box into the ends and lower edges of the partitions.
The covers will be in two parts hinged together, the rear part, 4 inches Wide,
to be nailed on the rear top part of the box, with its back edge even with the
outside face of the rear side of the box. Hang the wide portion of the cover to
this narrow portion with the butts or hinges. The cover of the top box will be
3 inches wider and longer than the other three, as it will project 1 1/2 inches
over the outside face of the box all around. The narrow portion of this cover
will be 5 1/2 inches wide. Having hung all the covers on the boxes, place them
in a row upon the floor, rear side up, with all the covers facing the same way,
keeping a space of about 11 inches between them. Nail the rear legs to the
bottom box, allowing the leg to project 6 inches below the bottom. Set the top box
so that the upper ends of the legs will come even with the under side of the
cover. Nail the legs to this box also. Move the two intermediate boxes until
the spaces between all the boxes are the same. Nail the legs to the
intermediate boxes.
Turn the four boxes completely, so that they will face front
side up, and adjust and nail on the other legs in the same manner. Stand the
“silverette” on its legs.
GAME TABLE
GAME TABLE
This table, made by the writer as herein described, has been
in daily use at the Copenhagen Settlement in Denmark for more than a year. The
checkers used were sawed from broom handles, one half of which was stained
black, making 30 checkers in all.
Requirements:
Body.
2 Butter Boxes (15 in. deep, 15 in. wide, 20 in. long).
Top. 1 Piece 1/2 in. thick, 3 in. wider than the depth of
the box with the cover and bottom removed, 3 in. longer than twice the outside
width of the box.
Legs
4 Stripe 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, 9 1/2 in. longer
than the outside length of the box. 4 Stripe 1/2 in. thick 2 in. wide, 9 1/2
in. longer than outside length of the box.
Facing Strips.
2 Strips 1/2 in.
thick, 2 in. wide, 9 1/2 in. longer than the outside length of the box.
Shelves.
The shelves can be made from the covers and bottom removed.
End Cleats.
2 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, and length 3 in.
shorter than the width of the top.
Middle Cleats.
1 Strip 1/2 in.
thick, 2 in. wide, and length 3 in. shorter than the width of the top.
Construction:
Make the legs 9 1/2
inches longer than the outside length of the box. Remove the cover and bottom
from each box. Draw lines across the inside face of the sides of the boxes
where the shelves are to be placed. In one box they will be located, one shelf
one third and, the
other shelf two thirds the height of the box. In the other
box the shelf will be one half the height. Fit the shelves and fasten them with
1 1/4 inch brads driven from the outside through the sides of the box into the
edges of the shelves. Having put the shelves in both, lay one box upon its side
and place the other box, upon its side, upon the first box. Match their edges
and nail them together. Now put on the legs and facing strips which also set as
intermediate legs, using care that all the legs project 4 inches at their lower
ends and 5 1/2 inches at their upper ends, then stand the table upon its
legs. Set the cover on the legs, keeping
an even projection all around, and drive three nails through the top into the
upper end of each corner leg and two nails into the intermediate legs. The
nails should be 2 inches long to hold well. On the top, directly over the
center of each compartment, draw a 12 inch square and divide each side of the
square into eight equal spaces, then draw parallel lines across both ways, thus
dividing the large square into 64 small squares. Sandpaper the top face and
whiten it, then blacken in every other square and give the whole top face a
coat of varnish. The balance of the table can be stained or painted any desired
color.
NOTE. The Toy Cupboard shown in the Nursery Interior is one
section of the Game-table made without the top skeleton compartment and with
four legs, and placed at each end of the Shoe Cupboard, which is made without
either corner trim or corner legs.
TWIN BED NIGHT TABLE
TWIN BED NIGHT TABLE
Made of two box. Space for water-pitcher, glasses, books,
and night convenience.
Requirements:
Body.
2 Cleanser Boxes (about 9 1/4, in. deep, 13 8/4 in. wide, 20
in. long).
Legs.
4 Stripe 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/4 in. wide, 26 in. long. 4
Stripe 1/2 in. thick, 1 8/4 in. wide, 26 in. long.
Door.
Made from the side of the box.
Top.
1 Piece 1/2 in. thick, 3 in. wider than the outside width of
the box, 3 in. longer than the outside length of the box.
Hardware.
2 1 8/4 in. butts and
screws. 1 bran pull knob. 1 brass button.
construction:
Make the legs 26 inches long. Remove one side from one box
and one end from the second box. Loosen the other end and move it in to form a
partition in the center, forming two compartments, each open end facing the
opposite way. Turn the first box on its side with the open side up and nail the
legs on, allowing them to project 3 inches below the bottom. Lay the other box on the floor, top side up,
and nail the top on, allowing it to project evenly all around. Turn the bottom
portion of the stand upon its legs, with the long projecting ends of the legs
standing up
NATURE STUDY STAND
NATURE STUDY STAND
The space between the upper and lower compartments is enclosed
with wire screen. The upper compartment contains an ordinary glass aquarium.
Requirements:
Body.
2 Cereal Boxes (about 6 in. deep, 17 1/2 in. wide, 23 in.
long). 4 Salt Boxes (about 4 in. deep, 4 in. square).
Door.
2 Strips 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 14 1/2 in. long. 2 Strips
1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 20 in. long.
Legs.
4 Stripe 1/2 in. thick, 1 1/2 in. wide, 42 in. long. 4
Strips 1/2 in. thick, 2 in. wide, 42 in. long.
Aquarium.
1 Glass Aquarium about 12 in. deep, 14 in. wide, 20 in.
long.
Leg Caps. 4 Pieces 1/2
in. thick, 5 in. square.
Screen.
1 Piece of wire fly screen 20 in. wide, 5 ft. long.
Hardware.
21 1/2 in. brass
butts. 1 brass pull-knob. 1 brass button.
Construction:
Make the legs 42 inches long. Remove the covers. Place the
large boxes on their sides, having their open tops facing the same way. Space
them apart about 18 inches and nail the legs on. Keep the bottom face of one box 4 inches
and the bottom face of the other 28 inches from the lower end of the legs. Turn
the stand upon its legs. Cut the two pieces of wire screen to fit the side space
between the boxes and one piece to fit the end spaces, and allow 1 inch or more
additional to both the width and length for lap to tack the screen to the legs
and boxes. Tack the screens on, the ends of which may be fastened to the inside
faces of the legs. The upper and lower edges may be turned at a right angle and
fastened to the boxes. Fasten each corner of the screen first, drawing it smooth
and without buckles, then fasten along the edge between. Place the stand on its
legs and nail a cap on the projecting top of each leg, setting them square with
the legs. and allow them to project 11/2 inches on all sides. Make the door 2
inches longer than the height of the space between the boxes, and fit it between
the end legs, keeping its outside face even with the outside face of the legs.
Fasten the screen on the inside face of and hang the door. Screw on the pull-
knob and the button. Set a flower-box on the center of and square with each cap,
and fasten it to the cap with small brads driven from inside the box into the
cap. Casters may be added if desired.
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